Saturday, 4 July 2009

Re-advertised J type and minor progress!

As keen J type hunters will know, this J type was for sale in the Midlands last month for a very reasonable £8K. It sold same day to a cash buyer. (GD) has spotted that it is now for sale at nearly £12K at a car dealers near Portsmouth.
Details are Trojan Cars
245 – 247 Francis Avenue, Southsea, Hampshire PO4 0AL4
PO4 0AL
tel: 07860 844409
The DVLA still thinks this is green, nobody has told them about the recent respray.!!






If your bored, play spot the errors, with the above vehicle, front badge is wrong, that one's off an FG Morris lorry, 2 of the six DZUS fasteners on the front panel missing and holes filled, Rear vehicle badge, looks odd and is in the wrong location, no door retaining spikes on rear wings, Cab interior unpainted, wrong side lamps fitted or wrong lens. We could go on, at least its on the road but if I'm going to pay over £2K over the odds for the van, it should at least be correct!

MORRIS MINOR PROGRESS.
Further work has been going on as we enjoy the mini heat wave, yes the filling and sanding has been completed on the off side rear of Polly B pickup. a quick coat of zinc based primer has been applied to it, as I'm not sure when I will get back to paint it!
I'm letting Caroline choose the colour, well its going to be green, the shade is up to her!!!

As you can see the brick has been removed, the gap between tailgate and pick up side is alright on the off-side, so we must now turn the vehicle round and repeat the repairs to the nearside.

The "B" series engine.

I was asked "where can I get some engines spares?" I said "which engine?" "why a B series" came the reply. I replied "B series, common as muck, no problem".
Well the guy felt spares were hard to get. I sat down and made a list from my small memory and a stack of data books of vehicles that had the "B" engine fitted in one of its many forms, I'm sure any one of the owners clubs could help.
Here is my list.
Austin Devon/Dorset 1947-52 (1200cc)
Austin A40 sports 1951-53 (1200cc twin carb)
Austin A40 Somerset 1952-54 (1200cc)
MG Magnette ZA/ZB 1953-58 (1200 and 1489 cc versions)
Austin Cambridge A40/A50/A55 1954-58 (1200/1489cc versions)
Morris Oxford/Cowley 1954-60 (1200/1489cc versions)
Metropolitan 1954-61 (1200/1489cc versions)
MGA 1955-62 1489/1588/1622cc versions
Wolseley 15/50 1956-58 1489 cc
Riley 1.5/Wolseley 1500 1957-65 1498cc
Morris JB/J2/JU250/Austin 101/152 1957-74 1489/1622/1798 cc versions
Elva Courier 1958-65 1489/1622/1798 cc versions
TVR Grantura 1958-67 1489/1588/1622/1798 cc versions
Austin A55/60 Cambridge/Morris Oxford/MG magnette Mk3/4 Riley 4/68 and 4/72 Wolseley 15/60 and 16/60 1959-71 1498/1622 versions
Rochdale Olympic 1959-65 kit car 1489cc
Gilbern GT 1961-67 1622/1798 cc
MGB 1962-80 1798 cc
Austin/Morris 1800/Wolseley 18/85 1964-75 Transverse mounted 1798cc
Morris Marina 1.8 1971-78 1798 cc
Leyland Sherpa 1974-87 1622/1798 cc
BL Princess 1975-78 1798cc
I'm sure there are plenty more. Sometimes I feel that the new type of old vehicle owner, does not have a clue about what there getting into. All us old timers in the vehicle owner/restorers have had to find out the hard way, the "youngsters" just want to point and click on a computer screen for help in getting info/data/parts they want it all too easy, maybe that's why they don't stay with it and after a few years move on to a new hobby.

Wednesday, 1 July 2009

Morris Minor update.

The original pick-up side panel, all the dents and rust don't show up in this picture. The rear light repair panel has been tacked in place. Below is the new rear wing that is to be fitted.

Old rear wing cut out showing very rusty inner wing, most of the "lip" where inner and outer join is missing/badly repaired.

New repair panel welded in place and some body filler has been applied with a light coat of primer to show up the high spot when rubbing down the filler.
Inside cab view of the newly fitted windscreen rubber, shows the double width of the rubber, half on the glass and half on the dashboard top.

From out side, the rubber seal is much smaller and over half of it is covered by a "C" shaped chrome brass trim, its a bit springy in the corners but at least its fitted. Only missing the two small joiner parts in the centre, top and bottom of centre pillar.
Other small jobs done include finding some original "cardboard" door trims along with correct door handle and window winder handle. The window now even goes up and down now that the "felt" in the runners (to stop wind noise and the glass from rattling) has been fixed correctly in place and everything well lubricated. More body work and welding to do on the tailgate and the whole of the nearside.

Monday, 29 June 2009

Minor split windscreens!

For all the tennis fans out there here is one of the hundreds taken by my wife on Monday.

Sorry no pictures on this posting,(PICTURE NOW ADDED HERE AND OTHERS ARE IN THE UPPER POSTING) Caroline my partner in life has taken the camera to Wimbledon to watch an Australian play Tennis. All my pictures from this weekends vehicle work went with her.

It was time to fit a new windscreen rubber to the pick up. The glass was being held in place by a vast quantity of silicon sealant, no rubber at all. Now I have heard this is a nasty job, I have done a couple of J types before and many one piece later Morris Minors. I also worked at a FORD garage in the early seventies I changed many a screen there. I work better on my own, so dreading the worst I checked the owners club forum site on windscreen replacement. Here are a few of their comments to give you a taste of the job.

The rear is manageable with a bit of help, but having done a SII front windscreen once I'd ask the garage. It took 4 people and was a pig to do I had a very enthusiastic windscreen fitter do mine. He spent all morning around my house and still wasn't satisfied so he had the car in his workshop for most of the following day and fitted it to his satisfaction.


The pattern windscreen rubbers are also a lousy fit, mine is all out of shape in the bottom r/h corner and still drips despite lashings of sealant.
I agree, an awkward job. I cut about 1 1/2" off each end of an old scrap pillar and the inside strip. I then fitted the two halves of screen together and tightened up the pillar. Then I fit the rubber to this and put the string in place, don’t forget to put thin string in the chrome slot at this point. This makes it possible to fit the screen in one piece similar to the 1000 screen, though obviously from the inside. Once in place the cut down pillar can be removed and the gap should be correct for refitting the proper one. I had 2 goes at this before I was happy and then sealed the edges all up with 3m sealer. Messy stuff!


Mine is also a poor fit inside but looks fine outside. I was told by one trader to glue the edges down inside.... I'll tell you now(Having been there three times) the replacement rubbers are more than useless, they do not fit, the slots are too tight and they don't close up onto the car frame at the corners, and therefore don't seal properly, its time the suppliers did something about getting a better pattern. There's been several discussions, regarding the best method. The last time I did mine I put the glasses into the rubber, fitted it to the frame from the inside without the central filler(the glasses touch so be care full) then fitted four straps, two on each glass through the gap at the centre and round the side frame and over a period of a week gradually tightened the straps and progressively pulled the glasses apart, until I could fit the inner strip, then the outer.


Then using the stuff they use to fit bonded screens to modern car stuck the corners bottom and top of the rubber to the car, lengths of timber pushed onto the rubber and onto the garage walls works to hold it down. Still drips slightly in heavy downpours on the move, fortunately not when just standing. Once you have done this then you can fit the chrome strip. Another story and another easy job.


So I thought we might be in for a game with this, the workshop manual, states assemble it all on the bench, with a dummy spacer between the two panes of glass, offer up the assembly (2x glass, 1x rubber 2x chrome inserts) and from INSIDE the car hold in place. Then using the string threaded in the slots, push from inside and second person from outside pulls the strings to pull the small lip over the body lip. EASY.

Well I started this job on Friday night but had to give up, due to failing light. One of the pieces of glass was on the bonnet of the car and slipped off, it hit the bumper and then the ground but did not break or even chip, good old laminated glass.

Saturday morning, saw me with a new plan. I cut the rubber so I now had one length, using super glue I fixed the rubber in a couple of places. Just the smallest amount of glue on the upper edge of the drivers side to hold the rubber in place. Now the side and bottom rubber section would stay in place so using a suction pad, (one I had for lifting and fitting floor tiles) I offered up the pane of glass from the inside. With plenty of lubrication and a metal knitting needle to poke/lever/ease the rubber lip round the glass edge, the pane slid into position. I then was able to (from the outside) pull the centre edge of the glass with both hands. I then had to re-seat the inner rubber many times as the glass settled in.

I then repeated this with the other pane, not so easy, as the first pane restricted just how much I could get the glass vertical. Slowly the more the glass shifted to the left, the more the glass became vertical and so it would move further to the left etc etc. Once in place the outer chrome trims were fitted, these were badly out of shape, and in fact came from another vehicle. They should be "C" shape but they needed lots of tweaking. Still they went in no trouble, rather too easily in fact and tended to "POP" up a bit in the lower corners. I may try to reform them some more or get out the dreaded silicon mastic and "give them a squirt" to hold them in place. Caroline wonders why I fitted them, they are after all so discoloured they are nearly black themselves and blend in with the new rubber rather well. Well they will do till some better ones come along.

Wednesday, 24 June 2009

Latest e-bay purchase.

Well I saw this one on e-bay Australia, alright its from an LC3 lorry that was being scrapped, It looked in very good condition. Well I won the item and it arrived just four days later.
Why buy an LC3 dash panel, well it has given me a period Lucas Amp meter, ignition warning lamp and a nice working PCL6 ignition lighting switch all of which fit our wonderful J types.

New (reproduction) switches are around £90, good second hand on e-bay go for £40 so I'm well pleased. Frank the seller e-mail to say he forgot to enclose the two keys for it and will send them shortly. He is also now on the hunt for other J type items for me, you never know what he might turn up.

Tuesday, 23 June 2009

Polly B Pick up and the classic car weekly J type.

Here is the battered pick up side, as often happens, the load floor and wheel arch corrode causing the sides to flap. An easy but incorrect repair is to weld a right angle section along the edge of the load floor and side section.

Cutting off the old outer wheel arch showed up the very rusty inner arch, it should be only spot welded where the two lips meet. This one as normal had been repaired with plates and all sorts of welding and filling. It has been done as a very temporary measure. There should not be any weld either side of the wheel arch ( load deck to side panel, it should have a nice shaped rubber gasket).
I now have to decided, what to do, spend a lot more money on further repair panels, after all this is a very "B" up pick-up, is it worth spending hundred of pounds on a none original vehicle? Make my own repair sections? Or buy a very big tin of cheap filler?
Its time to make a phone call for help, this I did and he was out...
I will have to think about this while at work tomorrow.

I have added 6 more J type van pictures and 4 more Morris Minor van pictures to the albums on the right.

In last weeks classic car weekly, I was told there was a j type van for sale. Well the details of this van are slim .

 

1954 Morris J Type side-Valve.

29479 miles.

Cream and black..

Original brown log book and new V5.

£8000.

Tel: 01979 260846.   ( Shropshire ) .........  ask for Peter.

You wont be surprised to know his phone never stopped ringing, he could have sold it ten times over. New buyer arrived same day with a lot of cash!


Sunday, 21 June 2009

10,000 visitors, period pictures and Cracking on with the basket case.

10,000 visitors, since Christmas, Many thanks to all the web clickers out there.


Three J pictures, you have seen these before but they are now slightly better images.

The "Polly B Pick-up".
Another view of the house brick, my welding is rubbish, that's why OBL is away being welded correctly.
I'm having J type withdrawal symptoms.

Back to the brick, should I leave it there? No a better idea use a nice "G" clamp on the tail gate hinge plate and let the brick just take the weight of the load deck.

Yes that looks better, paint the brick with underseal, nobody will know.

So I tacked in place a repair panel, welding outside is a right pain, the slightest breeze and the Argon gas has gone. The holes are for the rear lights, and these are the main reason it rots here, a great mud trap, mud/water from the wheels sprays all over the lamps and just sits there all nice and damp for weeks on end.

Other jobs carried out were new brake shoes, the brake pipes were connected up and with new fluid in the new master cylinder, we had brakes that worked.
Still need to find a driver seat, roof lining, door cards, radiator hoses, windscreen and rubber, rear lights. etc etc.
Still have to repair the deck floor and then finish the nearside light cluster and bolt the load bed to the chassis.